精神障害克服法
十分な栄養を補給し食事について見直しましょう。
適度な運動をし必要な休息を与えましょう。
伴侶を尊敬し子供を愛情で育て家庭を省みましょう。
人との約束を守り嘘をつかないようにしましょう。
自ら良い手本を示し地球を大切にする活動をしましょう。
義務を果たし恩義を返し常に学びましょう。
他人の信条に寛容でいてよいコミュニケーションをとりましょう。
常に自立し人に頼らず解決する思想をもちましょう。
自由や権利には責任が一体であることを常に理解しましょう。
社会や世界の構造を知るべく一生かけて学びましょう。
常に自己で選択し決断しその決断に対して自ら責任をとりましょう。
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抑圧と闘い奴隷であることをやめましょう。
被害者意識と正当化の枠から脱出しましょう。
自我を確立し何のために生き何を目的としているかを明確化しましょう。
常に物質に依存していることを戒め物質依存から脱却しようとしましょう。
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Location: | Coolangatta, Queensland, Australia |
Holding period: | February 28 - March 13, 2015 |
Call: | Men's Round 2 |
Conditions: | Two-to-three feet (1 metre) surf at Snapper Rocks |
COOLANGATTA, Queensland/Australia (Wednesday, March 11, 2015) - Competition at the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast presented by BOQ recommenced today after 11 consecutive lay days and ran through Round 2 at Snapper Rocks. The world’s best surfers battled through tough conditions to avoid elimination and earn a place in Round 3.
Kolohe Andino (USA) and Jeremy Flores (FRA) delivered one of the most exciting bouts of the day in Round 2 Heat 7. Both surfers got to work quickly, posting several scores each in the opening ten minutes, with Flores taking a slight edge, unleashing on the Snapper Walls. A thrilling battle unfolded between the pair and an exciting exchange played out, with the lead going back and forth. Andino, fresh from victory at the Australian Open, was able cement a narrow win over the Frenchman with an excellent 8.73, and moves through to Round 3.
“I was planning on surfing my own heat and not worrying about him, but then I had to because he was surfing so good,” said Andino. “Even if I didn’t win that heat I would have felt like I surfed my best but I’m stoked. I haven’t been using a leash in about a week so I was a bit nervous to throw one on so I chose not to today.”
“I felt good and did the best with the waves I got,” said Flores. “I’m really angry but that’s how it goes. Next time hopefully it goes my way.”
The much-anticipated opening heat of Round 2 saw three-time World Champion Mick Fanning (AUS) take on wildcard Dane Reynolds (USA). Fanning looked smooth and clean in the marginal conditions, using dynamic turns and wrapping cutbacks to earn an excellent 15.50 two-wave heat total, leaving Reynolds in a combination situation with ten minutes gone. After a solid start from the Australian, Reynolds struggled to find high-scoring potential. The wildcard posted a 6.93 to put himself back in contention, but was left searching for a 8.57. Fanning takes the win and moves through to Round 3, while Reynolds becomes the first surfer to be eliminated from the competition.
“It's our job to be ready every day,” Fanning said. “Being in the first heat kept me focused through all those lay days. You never really know what you‘re going to get with Dane. I didn’t really have a game plan, I just wanted to get up and get busy.”
“I’ve been checking the forecast constantly over the lay days just hoping it’s going to look good, but unfortunately there wasn’t much,” said Reynolds. “I hope there’s a possibility of surfing in other events this season, but I’m not sure after that performance!”
11-time World Champion Kelly Slater (USA) faced trials winner Jack Freestone (AUS) in Heat 2 of Round 2. Slater posted two solid scores with his opening rides and the young Australian was left with just a 3.03 on the board, searching for opportunities. An attempt in the final minute by Freestone fell short and he leaves the competition in 25th place, while Slater takes the win and moves on Round 3.
“During the lay days I surfed a bit, golfed a lot, ate and had massages,” Slater said. “I got the start in that heat so Jack had to wait and there weren’t many options for him. We were a little deep so we missed a few waves at the beginning. I’m waiting for the swell that’s forecast but any moment I hope it will pick up. There will be fun waves and I hope it will be a nice size for the finish.”
Owen Wright (AUS) and Keanu Asing (HAW) faced off in Heat 8 of Round 2. Wright opened his account with an excellent 8.93, putting pressure on the rookie form the start, and continued to build a solid heat total (the highest of the day). Despite a strong showing by Asing, he wasn’t able to find the near-perfect 9.77 required to overcome an impressive looking Wright, who moves through to Round 3.
“It’s really tricky out there in terms of waves,” said Wright. “I think I caught about ten waves out there and just kept trying. It’s really hard to find the waves but when they hit the bank and stand up and they’re alright.”
Filipe Toledo (BRA) looked on top form throughout his Round 2 bout against Adrian Buchan (AUS). Toldeo was electric, dominating the lineup and taking to the air for an excellent 8.27 and 7.80 for an early lead. The Brazilian improved his position with a last minute 8.20 and secured the win. Melling’s 13.10 heat total wasn’t enough to stop the in-from Toledo, who moves onto Round 3.
“I feel really excited,” said Toledo. “I had a couple of mistakes in my first Round so this time I tried to relax, breathe and calm down. After I got that first 8 it was all good. I hope to be in the top 5 this year and surfing against Gabriel, Kelly or Mick for the title. It’s going to be a good year.”
Italo Ferreira (BRA) caused the upset of the day in his heat against Adrian Buchan (AUS). The Brazilian was quick to work, attacking the wave and posting three scores before Buchan had got to his feet. The rookie continued to look calm and comfortable, maintaining his early lead through the heat with speed and flair. Buchan, who had posted only small scores, made a final showing but it wasn’t enough, and he is eliminated from competition in equal 25th while Ferreira moves onto Round 3.
“Last year was the best year of my life because of my qualification to the tour,” said Ferreira. This is my dream and I’m so stoked to make my first heat and I’m feeling confident. Gabriel is an amazing surfer and is my inspiration in the water. Today the conditions were hard but it was fun.”
Fellow Brazilian rookie Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) also caused an upset in his Round 2 heat, eliminating Kai Otton (AUS) and coming from behind to take a narrow victory over the Australian.
“I just relaxed and I’m so confident because I’ve been surfing the last ten days in these waves,” said Wiggolly. “I was feeling good and I just wanted to get out there. I’m stoked.”
The Quiksilver and Roxy Pro Gold Coast is webcast LIVE at WorldSurfLeague.com.
The world's best surfing is also broadcast LIVE on Fox Sports in Australia, MCS Extreme in France, EDGE Sports in China, South Korea, Malaysia and other territories and the WSL's new partner in Brazil, Globo TV.
Event organizers will reconvene at 7 a.m. tomorrow morning to assess conditions and make the next call.
Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast Round 2 Results (1st to R3, 2nd = 25th):
Heat 1: Mick Fanning (AUS) 15.50 def. Dane Reynolds (USA) 9.43
Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 13.33 def. Jack Freestone (AUS) 10.63
Heat 3: Glenn Hall (IRL) 12.77 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 11.67
Heat 4: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 13.83 def. C.J. Hobgood (USA) 11.00
Heat 5: Taj Burrow (AUS) 15.17 def. Ricardo Christie (NZL) 9.84
Heat 6: Josh Kerr (AUS) 12.74 def. Brett Simpson (USA) 10.40
Heat 7: Kolohe Andino (USA) 15.83 def. Jeremy Flores (FRA) 15.53
Heat 8: Owen Wright (AUS) 16.60 def. Keanu Asing (HAW) 12.33
Heat 9: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 11.67 def. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 11.10
Heat 10: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 16.47 def. Adam Melling (AUS) 13.10
Heat 11: Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) 14.16 def. Kai Otton (AUS) 13.93
Heat 12: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 14.10 def. Jadson Andre (BRA) 10.00Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast Round 3 Match-Ups (1st to R4, 2nd = 13th):
Heat 1: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Italo Ferreira (BRA)
Heat 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Miguel Pupo (BRA)
Heat 3: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Wiggolly Dantas (BRA)
Heat 4: Taj Burrow (AUS) vs. Sebastian Zietz (HAW)
Heat 5: Nat Young (USA) vs. Julian Wilson (AUS)
Heat 6: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Glenn Hall (IRL)
Heat 7: Mick Fanning (AUS) vs. Dusty Payne (HAW)
Heat 8: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Bede Durbidge (AUS)
Heat 9: Adriano de Souza (BRA) vs. Freddy Patacchia Jr.
Heat 10: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. Matt Banting (AUS)
Heat 11: Kolohe Andino (USA) vs. Filipe Toledo (BRA)
Heat 12: John John Florence (HAW) vs. Matt Wilkinson (AUS)
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風向 強い西
波高 岩和田・浦仲 脛 中央・浜 腿
日中気温 ~9度
海水温 ~13度
使用ボード なし
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休憩時間に中央をサーフパトロール!
今日も西風のウインドスウェール♪
画像は16:00に撮影
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俺の知る限り最もサーフィンと人生を楽しんでいる友人です。
英語が嫌いな方は、下記のアドレスに和訳があるので読んでみて下さい。
日本語 → http://m.bc01.com/news/5893
When it comes to representing the business of big wave riding, Big Wave Tour Vice President Gary Linden decided it was best to lead by example. At the tender age of 65, he just scored his first big wave at Jaws, site of the BWT's Pe'ahi Challenge. "Gary Linden is always one to walk the walk and challenge himself," stated BWT Commissioner Peter Mel. "It doesn't surprise me to see him give Pe'ahi a go. He is a true inspiration."
Though the event hasn't yet run, Linden was able to cross an item off his bucket list and, just maybe, set a record in the process. The big-wave hellman chatted about his experience at Jaws, the Paige Alms barrel and more.
World Surf League: You recently caught your first wave at Jaws. What was that experience like?
Gary Linden: I talked to Greg Long (USA) before and he said, "No, you can't do it, I don't think you can do it Gary. It takes all my athletic ability, every drop I make." So I had this in the back of my mind. But I've surfed all the other big waves, every spot we have on Tour, everywhere. It was on my bucket list to get one at Jaws.
I had some health issues this year -- I had an arthritic hip and some heart problems and I'm going, 'it's probably not going to happen'. I'm bringing all that baggage on the day. But I've still got my suit, I've still got my vest, just on the odd chance that I thought I could do it I would. I was sitting there watching all the waves and thinking. Finding out where I thought I could fit, what part of the peak. I've become really good at reading the waves so I don't put myself in the wrong position.
I thought, this is my chance. If I'm ever gonna do it, it's right now.
I sat there and my friend Ben Wilkinson (AUS), one of the guys on the tour who's really just a genuine human being, paddled over and goes, "Gary you want to catch a wave?" And I told him I didn't have a board. And he says, "Well I'll loan you this one." He's like 260 (lbs.). He's got a big old, thick board. I knew I was at least going to be able to get into it, I didn't know if I'd be able to turn it, but I'd get into it. I told him to go out there and surf and catch one and come back. So he comes back again says, "You wanna go Gary?" And I thought, 'This is my chance, if I'm ever gonna do it, it's right now.'
I suited up, paddled out, I knew where I was going to sit and I knew I had to do it quick because I didn't want to get caught out there for a while and I picked off a good one. I made it the bottom and got clipped by the wall just at the end. That's the hard part about Jaws, every wave pretty much barrels and you got to be able to set up. This board was just too big for me to really maneuver all that well, but it got me in which is what I wanted. It got me a notch. It was an amazing feeling.
WSL: What was the response from the crowd like?
GL: It was so gratifying to see the emotion and the joy on all the people out there that watched me catch it. I'm 65 and I may be one of the oldest guys to ever paddle in out there. If you're trying to lead a Tour or direct an event, it's nice for the people to know you can actually do it. There was so much love from everybody that I was actually able to do that, I think it encouraged them to know that when you reach 65 life's not over.
WSL: Tell us about your journey to founding the BWT.
GL: I realized that big wave surfing wasn't a sport, but more of a lifestyle for guys my age, in their 40s-plus, who had enough money to buy the bigger boards, could take time off work and chase the bigger swells. You have to have a flexible schedule, so none of the young kids were pursuing the sport. We weren't really seeing the limits of big wave surfing being pushed by people 18-30 when you're really in your prime athletic ability. I had the experience of working with the Tour and doing the format and I thought, 'Well, I want to help create a sport out of big wave surfing.'
When you reach 65, life's not over.
WSL: How did you get into big wave surfing?
GL: I think of big wave surfing as a philosophical approach to surfing. What that means is that you always sit out back and wait for the biggest wave to come in, regardless of how big it is. Whether it's two-foot and you're waiting for a three-foot, I'm gonna sit out and wait for the big one. (laughs)
The first big wave I ever caught was during the swell of the century at Rincon in 1969. The same day that Greg Noll surfed his wave at Makaha, I surfed Rincon and it was really, really big. I got a late start in pursuing what we now refer to as big wave surfing. But philosophically I was always trying to catch the biggest wave, no matter where I was.
WSL: Paige Alms also caught a great wave that day, did you see it happen?
GL: I was right in the channel, I saw the whole thing. Paige Alms just pulled into this barrel and it was fully legit. It was in the morning and the tide was a little higher, but there was a nice little barrel that came through. She pulled up into and we didn't know who it was, we thought it was some guy. She made it through the second section and totally disappeared and then came out and we go, "Dude, it's Paige!" The whole crowd then just went berserk, everyone was so happy. It set a new milestone for women's surfing. It's probably the best barrel that any woman has ever caught and recorded. She's paid her dues out there, she's out there all the time and her knowledge came through.
Watch: Take a Tour of Maui with Paige Alms
WSL: How does your family feel about you still taking on big waves?
GL: My wife and I have been married almost 41 years now so she's pretty much used to it. I think she enjoys the fact that I'm able to pursue something in my life that gives me so much reward. You know as a surfer, you're always able to share that stoke with the people that you love. If you're grumpy you go surfing, you come back and you're all bubbly and happy. So she's pretty comfortable with it.
Remind yourself how good it feels so you get past the fear to push yourself over the ledge.
My oldest daughter is probably the one that gets more nervous than anybody else. One day we were having Thanksgiving dinner, she lives up in San Francisco, and I had to go surf Maverick's that day. My board hit me above the eye and I had to go to the emergency room after surfing and get eight stitches. I was late to Thanksgiving dinner. So that's the big family joke.
I think they have confidence in me that I won't take unnecessary risks. I caught my one wave at Jaws and got out. It's not like I'm out there trying to get into the Guinness World Records or something. I think generally they're proud of it instead of wanting me to stop.
WSL: Can you tell us what you do to train?
GL: I never had to train. I shape surfboards which is pretty physical work, so I always kept in good shape. I live in Oceanside [Southern California] where my factory is and the waves out the back are closeout beachbreaks most of the time. So I ride a shortboard in closeout beachbreaks in all conditions, I try to go out everyday. You learn to read the waves -- wind-chopped, beachbreak is the hardest stuff to get in a good ride. I think reading the swell is really important.Paddling hard and getting to your feet quick is really important, so that means using a shortboard. Then being able to turn in a closeout helps train your reaction speed.
Mentally, I think you remind yourself always how much you want it. Think about it, dream about it. Remind yourself how good it feels so you get past the fear when you have to push yourself over the ledge. I mentioned I've had some health problems so I have a physical therapist helping me with stretching and building the core up. I watch what Nic Lamb and some of the other guys do in the gym, really physically getting themselves built up.
Watch: Heavy sessions and XXL Awards submissions
I think core training is probably good for anybody, but if you don't have it the most important thing is what's in your mind. If you tell yourself you can do it, you can do it. The younger kids I make boards for always joke about me, "Gary doesn't surf for a month and goes out and catches some big waves, how does he do it?" (laughs) You have to just keep your mind focused.
WSL: Do you remember your heaviest wipeout?
GL: Yeah. My heaviest wipeout was at Pascuales in Mexico. I was down there volunteering as head judge for the Mexican National Surf Championships. It was pretty big, we had to move the contest from Pascuales to another break. We came back in the afternoon and these big rights were just draining. There was nobody out just before dark and I couldn't sit there and watch it, so I paddled out by myself.
I got out there and it's the heaviest wave. I lined one up. I got to the bottom and made the drop. The lip broke on my arm and knocked my shoulder into my jaw and just about knocked me out. I essentially punched myself with my shoulder. I was semi-conscious underwater and remember going, 'Woah, I'm pretty deep. It's kind of cool.' Not really being all there, I almost drowned, but I popped up. That was my heaviest wipeout.
WSL: Where does the Big Wave Tour go from here?
GL: I'm just hoping we can keep the momentum going and make correct calls and get some events up there. The real goal is to create a sport and have contests all the time. I'm just really thankful for the opportunity to work with this group that is so intent on making surfing in general part of the public sport portfolio.
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工作してました。
そして・・・完成しました!
RESIN特有のテリ感が何とも言えない雰囲気を醸し出しています。
キャンディーの様でなかなかおいしそうな色となりました。
垂れ落ちるしずくも良い感じとなっています。
お部屋のアクセントにもなること間違い無し!
天井吊り下げ用。
こちらは自立型スタンドライトです。
リビングやベッドサイドに置いておくだけで良い感じとなります。
ライトを灯せばこれまたなかなか良い雰囲気が出ますよ~。
ご紹介したシーリングライトとスタンドライト、限定各1で販売しております~。
●シーリングライトは¥8000-(税別)
●スタンドライトは¥6500-(税別)となります。
*コチラの商品はデリケートな為、通販はお受けできませんのでご了承ください。
「有りそうで無かったこんな照明いかがですか?」
今日もオンショア。
白樺方面(07:38)
昨日ほど強くはありませんが変わらずの風。
この風、しばらく続きそうです。
少しでも軽減できる場所での波乗りですね。
3月11日・・・あれから4年が経ちました。
詳しくはをクリック
人とは人生の意味を求めて苦惱する生き物であり、 ネットショップ,ショッピングカート,オンラインショップ,通販サイト,ハンドメイド,ランキング,アクセサリー,シェル,貝雑貨,千葉,御宿,湘南,インポート,海外,セレブ,ビキニ,VOLCOM,ハワイ,FINE,カリフォルニア,フラガール,セブンスリー,ビーチガール,ビバーチェ,ピンク,ファッション,ヴィクトリア シークレット, 送料無料,マーメイドジュエリー SURF LOUNGE ひものん19 FAX 0470-68-7390
誰もが人生の意味を求めている。
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数年前、サーフボード工場から出される廃材を使ってアクセサリー等を作り販売させてもらってました。
再び急に思いつき製作を開始しました!
今度はアクセサリーではございません。
この世で2つと無いモノだと思います。
完成しましたらお披露目しまーす。。。
風向 弱い北、日中強い西
波高 岩和田・浦仲 膝 中央・浜 腰
日中気温 ~13度
海水温 ~13度
使用ボード なし
使用スーツ なし
使用アクセ なし
休憩時間に中央をサーフパトロール!
風が変わって潮が上げた夕方が遊べたと思う...
画像は14:00に撮影
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Blue Velvet Lounge
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サイズアップしてます。
白樺方面(07:37)
まだ風は吹いていないのですがこれからオンショアが強まる予報となっています。
潮が多くブレイクが少ない状況です。
風が吹くのが先か?ブレイクするのが先か?微妙なところです。
とにかくやるなら早いほうがよさそうです。
詳しくはをクリック
ここ数年、SUPフィッシングや海上クルージングを楽しんでいる方も多いと思います。
茅ヶ崎漁業組合からSUP愛好家へのお願いです。
①日の出前のパドルアウトの自粛
夜間や早朝の暗いうちからパドルアウトは視認性が悪いので危険。特に漁港周辺では衝突の危険を感じている。
船舶から視認性の良いジャケットの着用または日の出前のパドルアウト自粛をしてほしい。
②漁具の保全
定置網に係留する形でSUPフィッシングをしている者を見かけるが危険を伴う上、漁に影響があるのでやめてほしい。
③密漁の禁止
アワビ、サザエの密漁をしている者がいる。ブログやネット上ににもその様子をUPしている。
(そもそも犯罪)
ワカメや昆布も流れ着いたものを取るのはかまわないが、鎌で刈って採取するのも密漁である。
④航路への侵入禁止
漁船の航路付近でパドリングしているSUP愛好者がいる。衝突の危険を感じる。
航路というくくりだと、しらす船などは、航路が定まってないとのこと。
漁港付近、平島付近、烏帽子岩付近、定置網付近は特に気を付けてほしいとのことです。
漁業関係者はSUP愛好者と衝突事故があった場合、過失責任を負う可能性が高い。
海上の安全確保の為にSUP愛好者もマナーを守ってほしい。
市にも啓蒙活動に協力してほしい。など活発に意見が出され、積極的にSUP愛好者に向け啓蒙活動を行ってほしいと要望が出されました。
協力と徹底を、よろしくお願い致します。
SUPU理事長 細井 隆
以上の事を守って楽しく海で遊びましょう!
海で漁師サンのお仕事の邪魔はしちゃいけませんね~。
尚、茅ヶ崎ではSUPによるウェイブライディング(波乗り)には禁止エリアが設けられています。
赤丸のエリアではSUPでのウェイブライディングは禁止となっております。
詳しくは下記↓LINKをチェックしてください。
[重要]茅ヶ崎エリアでのSUP(スタンダップパドルボーディング)の使用について。
*クルージングは全エリア問題無しです。
茅ヶ崎が推奨する「SUPルール&マナー」 をお読み頂きご理解ください。
SUPやらない人もこの内容を理解して頂き、まわりに広めていってください。
事故があってからでは遅いので皆様のご協力をお願いします。
週明け月曜日!
白樺方面(07:55)
今朝もプアコンディション。
今日も東うねりに反応するところに潮が引いてきたらチェックしてみましょう。
明日はオンショアですが大きくサイズアップしてきそうですね~。。。
詳しくはをクリック
今朝も寒ぅ~い朝です。
白樺方面(08:40)
今日も東うねり。
もう少し潮が引いてきたら、昨日反応していた場所をチェックしてみましょう。
しかし・・・昨日よりオフショアの風が強いですね~。
海に入られる人はしっかりと防寒して向かいましょう!
詳しくはをクリック
いやいやいやぁ~・・・・今日はひときわ寒いですね。
波の方は東うねりに反応するところでは小波ながらブレイクはありましたね!
水温も今の時期がMAX低いと感じます。(約14℃前後)
海の中はブーツを履いている人は多いですがグローブ着用率はそんなでも無いかな?
グローブを着けない人に聞くと「パドルが重い」とか「煩わしい」と答えます。
でも手を保温するだけで体内の保温率もかなり上がりますよ。
「重い、煩わしい」とお答えの人にはこのウェットグローブをおススメします。
業界最薄裏起毛なスゴイやつ。
グローブ嫌いでもこれなら納得してくれること間違い無しデス。
そして・・・・とにかく暖かい方が良いという方には.....
ミトンTYPEウェットグローブ。
指の股部にはBlaccoこだわりのカッティングが施され壊れにくい構造となっています。
とにかくこのミトンTYPEは暖かいのでお試しください。
グローブやブーツは短い期間で買い換えるものではないので良いものを持っておきましょう
この寒さを乗り切れば後は暖かくなってきます。
KEEP SURFING.デスヨ
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0467-33-5305
プアな週末となってます。
白樺方面(08:35)
東うねりが反応しているようなので移動したほうがよさそうですね。
茅ヶ崎エリアは厳しそうです。
詳しくはをクリック
波は無くなっちゃいましたね~・・・・・
白樺方面(07:39)
昨日は楽しめた人が多かったのでは?
昼過ぎにはがっくりとサイズダウンし夕方にはたいぶ寂しくなってしまいましたね~。
今朝はさらに寂しさが増してしまいました。
次に波に期待しましょう!